London Fashion Week
From the biggest trends to the most desirable collections, we round up the new season at London Fashion Week, both on the ground and as seen on screen.
Fashion Week came home for September, and the result did not disappoint. Through championing diversity, creativity and emerging talent, it offered a positive look toward the future of the industry. This year, many of the London shows were divided into two camps. Houses such as Emilia Wickstead embraced the new minimalist sensibility, with a sharp focus on muted tones and clean structured tailoring. Sensible, considering low consumer confidence. Alternatively, a feeling of possibility and escapism eluded the more eccentric presentations. Specifically, designer Gareth Pugh returned to LFW with an explosive and daring visual album. Molly Goddard, Mark East, and Vivienne Westwood were also pushing enthusiasm and optimism through their collections. Intense palettes made for a very playful mood. Continue through as we dissect the main fashion, hair and beauty trends to emerge from a London Fashion Week like no other.
Above keyboard dressing
Ensuring personality is presented through a zoom call can be difficult. WGSN identified ‘above keyboard dressing’ as a pivotal trend for 2020 as we grow increasingly reliant on screen-based communications. Here is how it transcended through to LFW.
Key brands: Victoria Beckham, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Duro Olowu
Do it Yourself
DIY doesn’t scream luxury, but it’s origin within Japanese boro culture and sustainable essence makes it highly sought after for SS21. Especially considering that craft culture and the search for deeper meaning through consumption remains a prominent buying trend. Christopher Kane based his collection on portraits he created during the lockdown, giving them a highly personal feel.
Key brands: Bethany Williams, Richard Malone, and Liam Hodges
Red or dead
No matter the current climate, a trustworthy red lipstick can be relied on to perform. Add seduction with a deep matte and a winged eye seen at Vivienne Westwood. Otherwise, freshen it up with a bare face and a soft gloss as at Molly Goddard. Make up artist Pablo Rodriguez for Ryan Lo used the Illamasqua lipstick in shade Eurydice.
Key brands: Vivienne Westwood, Molly Goddard, Bora Asku, Longshaw Ward
From a luminous green buzzcut at Gareth Pugh to hot-pink Barnetts at Matty Bovan, it’s DIY lockdown hair all over again. Too overwhelming? Make the trend wearable but striking by adding it as a ‘peek-a-boo’ layer.
Key brands: Gareth Pugh, Charlotte Knowles, Matty Bovan
Key trend: Dramarama – A new obsession with the past.
Uncertainty often leads us to yearn for the simple opulence of the past. Dubbed ‘Dramarama’, the obsession for ‘Little Women’ and its time sake continues into 2021, with added grandeur and a hint of rebellion.
For Erdem and Simone Rocha, whose hair looks took their artistry from period dramas with headbands and ringlets, the catwalk became their stage. Simone Rocha’s was all about hugging the female form, with slinky fabrics and A-line, Elizabethan shapes. Nipped-in-waists dominated at Erdem. Feminine bows, puff sleeves and ruffles popped up all over Molly Goddard and Preen by Thornton Bregazzi’s collections also.
British favourite Vivienne Westwood brought us comedy through pantomime. A red nose, clown-like lips and a painted white face. With her new focus of releasing one drop a year, Westwood introduces a unisex collection that works for any season. A lead other designers are beginning to follow.
Then, of course, there was Matty Bovan. His extravagant masks that covered the entirety of his models’ faces were made a style asset as opposed to a style compromise. Whether the world stage is currently presenting a comedy or a tragedy, we can always count on the creativity of fashion and its followers to offer a much-needed escape.
Key brands: Simone Rocha, Molly Goddard, Erdem, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Gareth Pugh, Matty Bovan, Vivienne Westwood, Richard Malone, Edward Crutchley
The shows so far have proved that British designers have embraced the turbulent times head-on. Many have created smaller collections during lockdown with a greater emphasis on wearability and longevity. Finally, a fashion week where designers are less focused on creating one season wonders that negatively impact our planet and move towards evergreen trends that will remain stylish.
Maybe it’s time for the industry to bravely confront the painful truths of the world it is moulding and use what is found to inform something new.
Did you miss our New York Fashion Week round-up? Or do you need to track how trends have progressed from the previous season? No stress! Keep up to date with past and present Fashion Months at @croznestuk through our visual Trend Reports that put it all in one easily accessible place.
Words by Rhiannon Hudson